The world's cheapest Michelin starred restaurant - Tim Ho Wan, Mongkok (Hong Kong)

Yum Cha enthusiasts await their turn

Where in the world can you have a meal in a Michelin starred restaurant for under AUS$15. Yes ... you heard right... not $1500 or $150... but 15 bucks!

The place is Tim Ho Wan (meaning 'add good luck')  -  a pokey little dumpling restaurant/cafe in downtown Mongkok in Hong Kong AND also the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world. Our ultimate goal is to fill our bellies with dumplings and still have enough money to hit the shops in  Hong Kong.

Mr FBC and I were excited about the opportunity to have our first 'Michelin star' dining experience since reading about it in the SMH. We are 'food obsessed'. So, like all good food bloggers, we made sure we arranged one of our only 2 days in Hong Kong around the pursuit of food.  

As we soon discovered, to achieve this feat we required 3 important things:
1. Strategy
2. Patience
3. Snacks (!)

Strategy

We arrived at 10.30am using the 'strategy' of getting there well before lunchtime to have yum cha brunch. The place only opens at 10am but there was already a mass of people waiting outside. Through essential observation I realised there was a ticket system. Mr FBC and I got our ticket from the lady at the counter and our number was no. 67. "Do they start their numbers at 60?", I asked Mr FBC hopefully.  "Number 5, number 5", the ticket lady yells out in Cantonese. Thank god that I understand basic cantonese numbers (thanks mum!)... but  whaaaaat??.... we're number 67??? At this moment in time, Mr FBC and I are wondering if we would be eating yum cha today. We figured we would go exploring Mongkok instead of waiting around the restaurant. This leads me to our next critical skill....

The Winning Ticket (after a few hours) is No. 67

Patience

Our anticipated wait meant Mr FBC and I had plenty of time to explore Mongkok, which has the highest population density in Hong Kong. Mongkok is a super busy place and walking the streets around the restauarant can leave you with sensory overload. There's the 'Ladies Market' on Tung Choi Street which sells lots of clothes, handbags (plus the odd fake handbag or two), watches (plus the odd fake watch or two).  Then there's Fa Yuen Street, also known as 'Sneaker Street', which is lined with shoe shop after shoe shop. Mr FBC bought a new macro lens for his Olympus DSLR camera at Sai Yeung Choi Street South, which as you would expect is known as 'Electronic Street'.

Mr FBC and I decided to head back to Tim Wan Ho every hour to check on the numbers - which was a good strategy.  Here's a tip if you ever go to this place. Make sure you either wait patiently for your table or you are very good at estimating when you're ticket  number will be called. There are signs in both Chinese and English on the doors which indicate that if your waiting ticket number is over 5 numbers it will no longer be valid (e.g if you're ticket is 45 and they're up to 51). You will need to register for a new ticket again. We saw it happen to a few people while we were waiting and you really feel their misery. But as the saying goes, "You snooze, you loose!". Be aware - the ticket lady will make no exceptions.

While you are waiting you can also studiously review your ticket which also happens to be the menu (don't worry - there are English menus). You need to tick the dishes that you'd like to order and you give the ticket to a waitress on the way in.

Snacks!
Waiting, waiting...
Fast forward two hours later....Mr FBC and I are getting a bit peckish and we're still not sure when we would eat. We didn't want to eat too much and wanted room for dim sum. So, we settled on a coffee from starbucks and some waffles from ubiquitous food booths in Mongkok. The waffles were sweet and crisp... a bit like think ice cream waffle cones. A good choice to abate our hunger for awhile.

Waffles from a food booth in Mongkok

More waiting.....

Yum Cha goers clamouring for tickets from the 'ticket lady'

After a total of three loooong hours, but with plenty of shopping in Mongkok to fill in the time, Mr FBC and I finally get into Tim Wan Ho with our ticket. Phew!

The owner of the restaurant is Mak Pui Gor, a former dim sum chef from at the three Michelin-starred restaurant Lung King Heen located in Hong Kong's Four Seasons Hotel. Suppose he wanted to branch out and cook for the 'real people'.
The Michelin Star Experience?

Once in the restauarant, there was definitely a frenetic vibe in the place. Or it could just be the ravenous stomachs of all the diners who would have had to wait an average 3 hours like Mr FBC and I. We ordered 7 dishes and made a strategic decision not to order 'rice dishes' so we wouldn't get too full. In hindsight, we probably could have ordered more but... ah well..you 'live and learn'.
There really isn't too much to see once you are inside. Everyone is packed in and the place only fits around 20 people. So, I think the experience is primarily about the food as opposed to the decor.

Inside Tim Ho Wan

The first dish to arrive was the Fung Zao (otherwise called Phoenix Talons). The chicken's feet were very moist and tender, with the skin falling easily off the bones. The combination of chilli and black bean sauce were perfect. Definitely good chicken's feet.

Fung Jao - steamed chicken's feet with black bean sauce 

Next was the steamed dumplings in 'chow' style. These plump parcels were filled with a mixture of garlic, chives, pork, dried shrimp and mushrooms.

Steamed Dumplings in 'Chow' style

We also got some spare ribs. The meat was very tender and melted in your mouth.

Steamed spare ribs with black bean sauce

Yum cha is never really yum cha if you don't order  sui mai. Often I use this dish as a standard to compare restauarants. These siu mai's were perfectly steamed with a good ratio of pork to prawn wrapped inside a thin wheat flour wrapper.

Siu Mai - steamed pork dumpling with shrimp

The next steamed bamboo basket was filled with har gow (steamed prawn dumplings)... another good yum cha staple. These were perfect. The rice paper wrappers were perfectly steamed and translucent, revealing pump juicy prawns. Yum!

Har Gow - Steamed prawn dumplings

Another dish that we ordered was the rice paper rolls stuffed with prawns.  The rice noodle was beautifully steamed making it light and soft, containing plenty of plump fresh prawns to dip into the pond of soy/oil sauce. 

Cheung Fun -Rice noodle rolls stuffed with prawns

Our final dish that we had to complete our dining experience was the 'char sui bau'. I believe this is the signature dish of the restaurant and I've read that they make up to 750 a day. They definitely didn't look or taste like any other char sui bau that I've had - but they were great. I could have had more. I usually expect the shell of the bun to be made of the white fluffly dough. However, this bun actually looked more like a 'bo lo bau'  (chinese pineapple bun) with the shell being sweet and slightly cake-like in texture. The insides were filled with a delicate char sui (BBQ pork) filling.  Anyway, these little babies were very popular for diners. Looking around the room, every table ordered them and we saw at least 4 tables ordering extra and taking them home in a container.

Here's another tip - make sure you order extra of your favourite thing and take it back to the hotel with you. The char sui baau probably travels really well and would make for a delicious afternoon snack.

Char Siu Bau - baked bun with BBQ sauce

Char siu bau - side profile

The final cost for all that: HK$96 which is equivalent to just under AUS$15 - bargain!  The cheapest dish we got was the steamed dumplings at a measely HK$10 (about $1.40).

None of the dishes were drastically different to other yum cha that I've had around the world AND I'm not sure how many times I would want to wait 3 hours for my lunch.  However, it does have that famous 'michelin star' and I think that the quality of the food was well above other yum cha places. I suppose the key to the food at Tim Ho Wan is to keep is simple but to cook it extraordinarily well!

The final bill at HK$96 (equiv to AUS$14) 

Paper place mat which depicts the food on offer.

Our final tip: Try and get there well before10am and hopefully the queue isn't that long. If you get there after 10.30am then you are looking at around a 3 hour wait (unless the novelty has worn off for the Hong Kong-ers). Don't bother going there after 1.00pm in hope of getting a ticket as they stop handing out tickets around that time and will ask you to return at 3pm.

Tim Ho Wan 

Open 10am -10pm

 2-8 Kwong Wa Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon